Dégustation
Lemon
This
tasting is all about the lemon.
Recipes
Below:
Lemon
Ice
Caramelized Lemon Tart with
Shortbread Butter Crust
Lemon Curd
Lemon Brandy Mousse
Lemon Glaze
Soft Lemon Cream Almond Cookies
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Lemon flavor can
be both light and strong and depending on how it's used, can be a highlight
or very intense. Lemon (fruit) is known by other names depending on
where you are in the world: limone (Italy), limón (Mexico), limonen
(Germany), citrónnier (France) and known as citroen by the Dutch.
All of the lemon is used commercially and in the home: the rind, juice,
fruit and the oil. Major varieties of the lemon include 'Lisbon'
and 'Eureka' (tart) and the 'Meyer' (sweet or less
acidic). Other varieties include the 'Bears's', 'Harvey',
and 'Ponderosa', all tart, and the 'Dorshapo' and
'Millsweet' which are sweet/non-acid lemon varieties. The fruit
is widely recognized as being oval to roundish in shape, having yellow
to bright yellow skins with a pulp that is pale yellow and flavor ranging
from very acidic to mild.
Lemon is generally
grown from seed, while commercially grown citrus is grafted or budded
to rootstock to ensure uniformity. Lemons can grow in most soils but
is temperature sensitive, being less able to recover from frost or freezing
temperatures. Since lemons are sensitive to rough handling, it is common
practice to spot-pick by hand: picking lemons from the tree
that reach a certain size. Commercially, after picking, grading, washing,
waxing, and crating, lemons are 'cured', or stored at a constant temperature
with regulated humidity. Green lemon fruit may be held for longer periods
until the skin turns yellow and the juice percentage goes up. Some producers
use an ethylene gas to speed up degreening, but this also speeds
up decay of the fresh fruits.
In pastry, lemon
peel is used to flavor and texture baked and freshly prepared items,
lemon oil and extracts to flavor candies and confections, lemon juice
for mousses, curds and sauces, and fresh lemon is used in prepared pastries.
Lemon flavor is
also found in many herbs such as lemon balm, lemon thyme, lemon basil,
lemon verbena, lemon mint and lemongrass. These popular herbs can be
easily incorporated in any culinary herb garden for both savory and
sweet applications.
Here are recipes
containing lemon.
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Lemon
Ice
Intensely
sweet and tart, this is a refreshing addition to a summer menu.
1 c sugar
2 c water
2 t finely chopped lemon peel
2/3 c freshly squeezed lemon juice
Bring the
sugar and water to boil and add in the lemon peel. Allow to cool
and pour into an 8 inch by 8 inch glass baking pan and freeze
until slushy around the sides. Remove from freezer and mix until
no lumps remain. Place in freezer and freeze until almost solid.
Remove from freezer and beat until no lumps remain. Repeat procedure.
If completely solid, simply remove from freezer and let stand
about 15 minutes to soften and beat. The result is a lemon ice
that is powderedy with soft crystals. The finely chopped lemon
peel will give it some texture. Can easily be made ahead.
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Lemon Curd
This traditional curd is cooked in a bowl
set over simmering water. Using a stainless steel whip instead of a
wooden spoon gives it a lighter texture when done. You can substitute
finely chopped lemon peel for the grated if you prefer that texture.
4 eggs, large
1 c sugar
1/2 c freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 c unsalted butter
2 T lemon peel, grated
Beat eggs to break
up yolks, then add all ingredients to the eggs. Place in a large stainless
steel bowl set over simmering water and using a large wooden spoon,
stir until thickened. Mixture will be very hot when done, and thickened,
and when tested, will leave a clean path on the back of the wooden spoon.
Transfer to a shallow container and allow to cool before placing in
the cooler. Use within a week.
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Lemon
Brandy Mousse
The addition of brandy cuts down
on the sweetness, and makes it a good base for many fruit dessert
applications.
Yolk Mixture:
4 yolks, large
1 T finely chopped lemon peel
1/2 c freshly squeezed lemon juice
2/3 c sugar
Gelatin Mixture:
1 envelope gelatin
1/4 c brandy
2 c whipping cream
For the yolk
part: mix yolks, chopped lemon peel, lemon juice and sugar in
a large stainless steel mixing bowl set over a pan of simmering
water. Using a stainless steel whisk, beat until thickened and
done; mixture will be very hot and thick. Place in the bowl of
a stand up mixer and using a whip attachment, whip using medium
speed until cool, thickened and lightened.
For the gelatin
mixture: sprinkle the gelatin powder evenly over the brandy in
a small glass dish. Let bloom for 5 minutes. Place the glass dish
over a pan of simmering water and stir until melted. Remove from
the water and allow to cool until warm; not hot.
For the Mousse:
Transfer the yolk mixture from the mixer bowl to a large mixing
bowl. Rinse and dry the mixer bowl (or use a second mixer bowl
if available) and add in the whipped cream. Using the whip attachment,
whip the cream until soft peaks appear; do not overwhip. Reserve.
In the large
mixing bowl, whisk in the gelatin mixture, then fold in the whipped
cream. Pour or spoon this into individual dessert glasses, or
transfer this mousse into a container in the cooler, covered,
until set up. Can be spooned into quenelles, or scooped as needed.
This is also a great mousse to be used in a mousse cake as it
sets up well.
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Soft-Baked
Lemon Almond Cream Cookies
These cookies are cake-like, and the lemon
zest gives it a naturally light lemon-yellow color.
Sliced almonds,
lightly toasted, as needed, about 1/2 cup
1/2 sugar
1/2 c brown sugar, packed
2 eggs, large
1 c cream
2 c flour
1 T finely grated lemon zest
1 t baking soda
1/2 t salt
Mix the sugars and
eggs in a large mixing bowl. Add in the cream. In a separate bowl stir
together the flour, zest, baking soda and salt; incorporate this into
the cream batter.
Using a teaspoon
or soup spoon, spoon the batter onto a sheet of parchment paper over
a baking sheet. Sprinkle with sliced almonds, and bake in a 350°F
oven until browned around the edges. The cookies will be soft and cake-like.
Cookies are best if used same or next day.
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Lemon
Glaze
Use this recipe for glazing cakes, tea
breads, coffee cakes, etc.
1 c powdered sugar
1 to 3 T freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 t vanilla
Sift the powdered
sugar and add the vanilla. Stir in enough lemon juice to desired consistency.
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Caramelized
Lemon Tart with Shortbread Butter Crust
This recipe is for an 11
inch fluted tart pan.
Crust:
2 3/4 c packed shortbread cookie crumbs (ground in food processor)
8 T unsalted butter, melted
1/4 c powdered sugar
Filling:
2 eggs
3 yolks
3/4 c sugar
1/2 c freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 t finely chopped lemon peel
1/2 c unsalted butter, cut in tablespoons
Granulated sugar for caramelizing
For the crust:
Mix the crumbs, butter and sugar until combined. Pour mixture
on the bottom of the tart pan. Start by pressing on the bottom
to firmly pack and then work up the sides. Press until there is
an even layer of crust on the bottom and sides of the tart pan.
Chill; reserve.
For the filling:
Place eggs, yolks, sugar, lemon juice, and chopped lemon peel
in a large stainless steel mixing bowl set over simmering water.
Whisk with a stainless steel whip until thickened and light. Mixture
will be very hot; be careful not to overcook. Remove from heat
and stir with a wooden spoon for a couple of minutes. Slowly add
in the butter pat by pat, stirring a pat until it is melted before
adding in another pat. Cool to room temperature, covered and stirring
occasionally, then pour into reserved crust. Using an offset spatula,
spread until even and cover the top with plastic film. Chill until
firm, at least an hour or two.
For decoration,
you can cut slice into individual portions and caramelize on the
individual plate, or caramelize the entire tart and bring to the
table for service. For caramelizing: sprinkle an even layer of
granulated sugar over the surface. With a flame torch, wave back
and forth over surface until the sugar is caramelized. Allow to
cool to a crisp caramel before serving.
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Pictures
Copyright © 2007 Renee Shelton.
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